Peels! Not So Scary: Fruit Enzymes vs Chemical Peels

Does the word "PEEL" make your skin crawl?

People often recall images of red, swollen, burnt faces seen on their friends, coworkers or on Samantha in Sex in the City.  

NO!  I WON'T DO THIS TO YOU!!

Those are powerful chemical peels performed in a doctor's office.  These powerful peels can result in burning, peeling, scabbing and even scarring. The client must stay out of the sun completely.  Celebrities will hide at a retreat covered in gauze while their skin repairs...and sometimes the results are not as expected. These procedures are for people who want immediate results, are under constant care, and have a lot of money.


Personally, I don't believe in assaulting skin like that, but if it works for them, they can spend the thousands of dollars to do it.  


I perform peels that are gentle and create beautiful effects on the skin over a few sessions.  Clients have a choice of how strong they want their treatment, but I will always perform a regular facial prior to deciding on a peel.  This way, I can see how the skin reacts to ingredients, learn about the client's skin care routine, and prepare their skin for the next step.

Gentle peels create a variety of noticeable results

- Smooth skin by exfoliating dead skin cells
- Plump skin by stimulating collagen, elastin and new cell growth
- Improvement of fine lines
- Clear skin by unclogging blackheads and closed comedones (clogged pores under the skin)

ENZYMES

Enzymes occur naturally in fruits.  They are nutrients and proteins that instigate metabolic processes and speed up biological reactions in all cells of all living things.  Just as enzymes are necessary us to digest food, they aid in digesting dead skin cells and stimulating active new ones.


They are like Pac-Man, gobbling away dead skin, allowing new skin cells to grow and nutrients to penetrate the skin:

Enzyme peels use fruit enzymes, combined with Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Glycolic and Lactic Acids).  The enzymes destroy dead skin cells and gently release new skin, while the AHAs loosen and detach the dead skin cells.


Why get rid of dead skin cells?  Well, they can increase the appearance of wrinkles, and clog pores, creating blackheads and pimples.  Acne is a result of an overproduction of skin cells.  The skin doesn't have a chance to shed them fast enough, the pore clogs with cells, bacteria gets blocked in, and a pimple grows.


Enzymes penetrate the top layers of skin, stimulate new cells, detox the pores, and increase the natural exoliation process, resulting in immediately better tone and texture.


Enzyme peels are usually recommended for dark skin, active acneic skin, and sensitive skin, as there are no extreme chemicals, friction or temperatures involved.


I have two great fruit enzyme peels:  

The Pomegranate Enzyme Peel is good for all skin types, as deeply cleans pores while adding hydration and brightening qualities.  Lactic Acid can be added to the peel for additional brightening.  

The Pumpkin-Yam peel is best for oily and break-out prone skin.

CHEMICAL PEELS

Chemexfoliation is one of the least invasive ways to improve your skin's appearance.  Chemical solutions are carefully applied to skin by a certified practitioner to improve break-outs, texture, fine lines and pigmentation, resulting in a healthier glow.  A combination of alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are used (such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid and maleic acid).

I have been certified by PCA Skin, the provider of my chemical peels.  They are the lightest and gentlest and come with a Post-Procedure Kit to ensure the best results.

PCA chemical peels can be very effective at treating facial blemishes and acne, uneven skin pigmentation, fine wrinkles, and damage caused by the sun, aging, and other sources of skin imperfections.


It is normal for clients to experience some temporary redness, flaking, scaling, and/or dryness which usually resolves as the skin adjusts to PCA chemical peels. In order to achieve the desired results, a client will often need a series of PCA chemical peels. 


Here's a really good article about the Myths and Truths about chemical peels:


Top 5 Myths and Truths about Chemical Peels


If you're interested in learning more about peels, or would like to schedule one, please feel free to contact me any time!


--Stephene

A DIY DETOX FACIAL - Be a Bitchen Kitchen Beautician

So the holidays are over, you pushed the limits and now you’re tired, broke and feeling ugly?  You spent all of your money on gifts and partying and you don’t have enough for new skin care products, let alone a pampering facial?  


I’ve been in that situation almost every Monday of my adult life.  I started experimenting with at-home facials a long time ago, and I’ve learned a few things since beauty school that I wish I knew back then.  I love expensive products, but it’s not realistic to expect people to spend crazy money on skin care right now.  That’s how I became a bitchen Kitchen Beautician over the years.

I have a simple Detox Facial that uses cheap ingredients from your cupboards and fridge.  You won’t even need to go to the store.  No excuses. 

One of the first symptoms that you might notice after the holidays is sallow, blemished, irritated or dehydrated skin, red, puffy eyes and lackluster lips.

Lots of parties often means more make-up, falling in to bed without washing your face and waking up with a big ol’ zit or blotchy break-out along with your hangover.  Then your lips are dry and flaky and your eyes are dark and puffy.  It sucks.

A lot of skin is dehydrated.  There’s a difference between “Dry Skin” and “Dehydrated Skin”.  Dry skin is a genetic condition and refers to skin that is lacking oil production.  Even skin with pimples and clogged pores can be dehydrated, so you need to do something about it.  FEED IT.  Dehydrated skin refers to a lack of water.  Indoor heat, air conditioners, wind, smoking, and drinking causes the skin to lose water content, making it tight, sensitive and irritated.

First, don’t feel bad.  Everyone around you is going through the same thing and is feeling the same way when they look in the mirror.  I get up-close-and-personal with a lot of faces and believe me, every single person has something going on that they aren’t happy about.  So get over it and go to your kitchen.

Here’s my FIVE STEP AT-HOME DETOX FACIAL

Prep:  Gather the following:

-       A pot of water

-       A towel

-       A washcloth

-       4 Chamomile, green or black tea bags

-       Jojoba, Grape seed or Olive oil

-       A gentle face cleanser

-       White or brown sugar

-       Exfoliating mask ingredients (see below)

-       Blemish spot treatment (if needed)

-       Moisturizer

-       Aloe Vera gel (optional)

1)    Put pot of water on stove and bring to a boil.

2)    Moisten two teabags and place in refrigerator.

3)   It's best to do this facial at night, before bed.  You skin warms up as you sleep, which helps the nutrients penetrate deeply as you sleep and repair.

STEP 1

Start with a Cleansing Oil Massage. Pour 1 – 2 tablespoons of jojoba, grape seed or olive oil in your palms.  Massage in to face and neck and around eyes for 2 – 3 minutes.  Rinse by adding warm water, little by little, until you can feel the normal texture of your skin again.

I know this sounds crazy, but a lot of oils are really good for all skin types, including oily skin.  Jojoba is the best, but if you don’t have that, grape seed oil or olive oil are also very good.  Here’s how it works:  Oil attracts oil.  So, when you massage oil in to your skin for several minutes, you increase blood circulation to the surface of your skin, opening the pores and loosening the dirt, make-up and sebum.  As you continue through the cleansing process, that loose sebum will eventually get washed away.  The antioxidants and other nutrients in the oils help to heal and feed your hungry skin and blemishes.

STEP 2

Now you need to cleanse with a very mild soap or creamy cleanser.  Even if you’re having a breakout, start gentle and your skin will thank you.  Please don’t use any harsh soaps, especially something like Irish Spring, Ivory, anti-bacterial soaps, little hotel soap bars or any other random soap on your face!  These types of soaps strip the natural oils.  All skin types need those natural oils to keep skin pH in balance.  You’re better off rinsing your face really well with water than using harsh soaps with fragrances and chemicals.  Don’t forget, you’re DETOXING.

STEP 3

Steam.  Sometimes I just take a nice hot bath or shower, or you can boil a pot of water and drape a towel over your head for 10 minutes.  Add some tea bags or other herbs like rosemary, sage, chamomile or calendula, if you have them.  Do not steam if your skin is extremely sensitive or dry, you are experiencing Rosacea or a major acne breakout.

STEP 4

Exfoliating Mask.  This is important!  Exfoliation will help shed dead skin cells, bring circulation to the surface for nourishment, and further loosen clogged pores.  It also allows for deeper penetration of the nutrients.

You might not have a favorite exfoliating product or mask, but you can still easily exfoliate at home and should do this at least a couple of times a week.  


Make an exfoliating paste with fine grain sugar (white or brown is fine) and some of the following ingredients, depending on skin condition:

      - Oatmeal (for soothing irritated skin).  Grind the oatmeal in a coffee grinder until fine.
-       Plain yogurt, milk or cream (for soothing, hydrating and lactic acid exfoliation)
-       Honey (pulls moisture toward the skin and acts as an anti-bacterial agent for blemishes)
-       Egg white (tightens skin and pores, good for oily skin)
-       Tomato, blended (Good for blemishes and toning)
-       Lemon juice (brightening and toning - not for sensitive or acneic skin)
-       Pineapple pulp, blended (for brightening and toning)
-       Canned pumpkin (for extra exfoliating acids for blemished skin)

Please note:  If your skin is extremely sensitive or acneic, gently massage your face with a washcloth and gentle cleanser at the end of the second cleanse.  Make a mask with the appropriate products above and do not add the sugar, as it can be too irritating.

Massage in to skin, including lips (but avoid eyes) for 2 minutes.

Apply cooled chamomile, black or green tea bags to your eyes while you relax and the mask does its thing for 10 – 15 minutes and rinse with warm water.

STEP 5

Hydrate.  This is also important for all skin types.  It’s crucial to keep the moisture and oil content of your skin in balance.  Overly stripped skin will cause an over production of oils, leading to more pimples down the line.  Use your favorite moisturizer, or spot-treat blemishes, and then follow with aloe vera for oily or blemished skin.  For dehydrated or sensitive lips and face, apply a light layer of jojoba, grape seed or olive oil mixed with aloe vera and let it soak in overnight.

You will wake up glowing, dewy and gorgeous.

Hey Ladies: Stop STRESSING OUT! Hints for Glowing Skin

I'm already performing facials and let me tell you, looking at skin up close is teaching me a lot.  I've always been my own guinnea pig.  Now I see how different everyone is and it's fascinating.  But there's one thing that we all have in common: STRESS.  


Women's skin has changed over the decades.  We now have full time careers (often the breadwinners), while taking care of kids and partners, trying to be healthy and pretty, on top of dealing with traffic, debt, processed office air, crazy people on the street, crime, office politics, housekeeping and pollution.  I'm getting stressed just thinking of the numerous ways that our daily lives are assaulted by ugly situations.  And most women put themselves last on their list of priorities.  Who has time for pampering?  The skin shows it.


Stress takes it's toll in a variety of ways.  First, we stop doing the things that are good for us:  drinking lots of water, working out, eating healthy, avoiding alcohol, smoking or caffeine.  Some nights, we collapse in to bed and the last thing we want to do is wash our faces and floss our teeth.  I totally get it.


Well, this causes break-outs (stress and hormones cause congestion specifically around the chin area).  Stress also causes dehydration, blotches, allergies, puffy eyes and (shriek!) wrinkles.  So, the fight for equality has some pitfalls.  Whatever. We're smart enough to look amazing while taking over the world, right?


So I have a few tasks that should help ease you in to getting prettier skin while kicking the world's ass:
1) Drink a lot of water, especially if you like to party!
2) THIS IS ONE IS CRUCIAL: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser (no soap) for at least ONE FULL minute, every morning and night and follow with a good fragrance-free & dye-free moisturizer.  Your face will get clean, and the massaging action stimulates circulation to get rid of a lifeless complexion.  This also massages out those worry wrinkles - seriously.  DO IT.
3) If you have acne or break-outs, BE GENTLE.  People tend to attack their skin with harsh products to dry up the break-out quickly, over exfoliate and touch, pick and obsess over the pimples.  Nobody's perfect, let the pimple run it's course or you will make it worse and possibly create a scar.  Over-cleansing and scrubbing causes the skin to overreact and perpetuates the problem.  A break-out is your skin saying "I need TLC, not punishment."  Be patient, it  has it's own schedule.
4) Take a multi-vitamin every day.
5) Take deep breaths when you feel overwhelmed.
6) Put yourself first every once in while.  Scratch that.  Put yourself first EVERY DAY, even if it's for only ten minutes while you wash your face and treat yourself with a little kindness.  You deserve it.